24 June, 2020 | Reccy Guide
At the Northern cusp of the Sacred Valley, set amid snow capped peaks and lush rolling hills, the ruins of an ancient village stand testament to the tenacious Incan resistance.
Ollantaytambo, sometimes referred to as Ollanta, has been inhabited since the 13th century, although the ruins visible today were built some 200 years later. The Inca emperor Pachacuti constructed the town to provide lodging for Incan nobility, but the unfinished temple at its centre stands as a stark reminder of the empire’s bloody demise.
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The town would go on to host several ruthless battles, eventually becoming the last Incan stronghold to be defeated by the Spanish.
Today, the ruins of this once regal borough are a popular pit stop for tourists on their way to Machu Picchu. However those willing to spend a little longer exploring the labyrinth of 13 century streets, will be reminded that Peru’s treasures reach far beyond the headline attractions.
The original network of narrow cobblestone roads remains in place, winding through clusters of stone houses, and rock terrace fortifications, taller than most adult men, rise up around the periphery.
These terraces encapsulate the ingenuity possessed by their Incan engineers. Their high walls protected crops from wind, and created a microclimate which allowed farmers to grow species of plants native to far off habitats.
Remarkably, the irrigation system constructed at Ollantaytambo’s conception still feeds glacial mountain water into the canchas. Some of these ancient houses are still inhabited by local families.
Perhaps the most notable feature of the town can be found at the summit of a towering hill. Here, intrepid visitors will discover the immaculate remains of a vast temple complex, cut from huge stone building blocks. It’s design is striking for its use of specially carved rock, rather than the quintessential field stones more commonly seen in Inca construction.
Monolithic stones bear carvings of religious symbols, and an area called the Princess Baths houses several fountains and large pools, which were used for ceremonial bathing. At its centre is the Sun Temple, an uncompleted masterpiece which includes the Wall of the Six Monoliths.
Historians do not have a concrete answer as to why construction was abandoned. The leading theory is that either the Inca Civil War of 1529, or the Spanish conquest of Peru, interrupted building efforts, leaving this grandiose monument to the gods in a permanent state of pause.
The Temple Hill possesses an eerie tranquility, and as you wander between the stone structures, it is impossible not to contemplate the cataclysmic fate dealt to the Inca people by their European invaders.
The colonial city of Cuzco, around 95 km south of Ollantaytambo, bears the hallmarks of the Spanish rule over Peru. Although in possession of its own Inca ruins, the city is characterized by imposing colonial architecture. Ornate cathedrals pepper the ancient streets, carved wooden balconies overlook grand plazas, and sloping tiled roofs create a patchwork of terracotta.
Cuzco provides fantastic access to many of Southern Peru’s main attractions, including Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Tambopata Nature Reserve. It is also the perfect base for those looking to explore Ollantaytambo, with guided tours heading to the ancient ruins on a daily basis.
Most of these tours combine a visit to Ollantaytambo with other nearby attractions, meaning they are ideal if you only have a short time to explore the region.
Some of the tours have a full day option, which takes you from Pisac market, to Ollantaytambo, then to the rural market village of Chinchero. Your guide will collect you from your hotel at around 8am and you will head to your first stop, the Mirador of Taray viewpoint, via private mini bus. From here you will have panoramic views of the lush Sacred Valley, and the crystalline Vilcanota river which threads through it.
After a brief stop at the popular market of Pisac, you will journey on to Ollantaytambo. Most tours set aside an hour or two at the ruins for visitors to explore at their own pace. The area presents some fantastic hiking options, which offer spectacular views over the village and surrounding landscape. Cross the river via the free Inca Bridge, and take the gentle but rocky path upwards. This is a great spot for seeing hummingbirds, and climbs to another stunning viewpoint.
While a combined day tour is a great way to tick major attractions off your bucket list, many visitors find them rushed, and wish they had more time to explore Ollantaytambo.
If you prefer travelling at a leisurely pace then consider visiting the village independently. Public collectivos (mini buses) leave from Calle Pavitos and Av. Grau in Cusco every morning, setting off as soon as all their seats are filled. Alternatively, you can book a private taxi for around 100 soles.
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