Nazca Lines & Ballestas Islands: Explore Peru’s enigmatic south

Rising from the pacific ocean like a rocky metropolis, the ancient Ballestas Islands provide a wild playground for one of the most diverse bird populations in the world. This cluster of craggy islets is just a few km off Peru’s west coast, but visitors arriving from the chaotic streets of Lima will feel they have crossed into another world. 

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These giant rock formations span around 0.12 km², and provide a crucial sanctuary for millions of birds, mammals, and sea creatures. Penguins huddle on sun soaked rocks, Peruvian Pelicans dive along the shore, and dolphins sail between the silver waves. The sheer volume of marine life here is awe inspiring, and has earned the islands their reputation as the most significant coastal stretch in Peru. 

The islands experience next to no rainfall, and as a result, trees and plants are non-existent. This might seem like a disadvantage for the area’s wildlife, but in fact, is a bonus for the creatures that call the Ballestas home. Beneath the ocean hides an underwater jungle of some 300 species of algae, which attracts schools of exotic fish in their millions. In turn, these fish provide a hearty buffet for the mammals and birds here, including the many sea lions that populate the shores. It is a common yet extraordinary experience seeing thousands of birds dive bombing the ocean at dinner time, the sound of the waves completely drowned out by the ruckus of bird calls. 

Ballestas form part of the Paracas National Reserve, an epic coastal desert in the Ica region of Peru. The area spans 335,000 hectares, and marks the point at which the arid desert is engulfed by the Atlantic Ocean. These opposing features make for one of the rarest eco-systems in the world, and one that continues to fascinate zoologists. 

As well as boasting an abundance of natural wonders, the region sings with cultural history. A few hours south of the Reserve, in the Rio Grande de Nasca river basin, lies a series of ancient artworks, etched into the parched ground. They were created by the Nazca culture, a civilization which began around 100 BC, and remained in Peru for nearly 1,000 years. 

Nazca artists created the motifs by carving the top 15 inches of rock from the ground to reveal a lighter colored stone beneath. They depict animals, plants, and geometric shapes, and their purpose continues to puzzle historians. 

Although conspiracists swear the lines were created to attract aliens, modern historians believe ancient humans etched them as an offering to the gods, and they formed a key part of their religious rituals. Recent theories, that they were used as navigation points, are also gaining traction. 

Whatever their reason for existing, the symbols make for breathtaking viewing. 

For explorers looking to immerse themselves in this enigmatic region, there are a number of opportunities to combine Nazca and the Ballestas Islands in one trip. 

The Peruvian capital of Lima is the perfect place to begin your adventure. Alternatively, some tours take you to Nazca from Cusco by an overnight bus. Tours generally span two to three days, with a day dedicated to each location. 

In Lima, most tour companies will pick you up from your hotel, providing it is central. You will then begin the journey south to the Paracas National Reserve, which is typically 3.5 hours by road. Although most companies include a private bus transfer with the tour price, some use public transport with a hired guide. 

Depending on the length of your tour, your first day will be spent resting at your hotel, or you will head straight to your first activity. Alexander and Roberts tours commence the trip with a flight over the Nazca Lines. Your small plane will take off from the city of Nazca, and take you high above the etchings so you have a panoramic view of the area. Your guide will explain the origins of the lines, and be able to provide insight into their discovery. Most flights last around 30 minutes. 

If you opt for the two day tour with Peru Top Adventure, your first afternoon will include a tour of the Paracas National Reserve, where you will see the sweeping golden sands of Yumaque Beach, flocks of flamingos, and “La Cattedrale”, carved entirely from natural rock. 

On day two, you will head to your second activity. Excursions to the Ballestas Islands will take you by boat around the rocky islets, offering fantastic views of nesting and hunting birds. Although you will not be able to disembark the boat, you will be able to take in the sights from the comfort of your seat. 

At the end of your tour you will be transferred back to Lima, either via a private bus or guided public transport.